A lower rate isn't always a better loan. We run the real break-even, the real lifetime cost, and the tax impact before recommending anything. If the numbers don't make sense, we'll tell you to stay put.
Refinance Strategies
Most homeowners think refinancing means "lower rate." It can also mean shorter term, cash for renovations, or wiping out high-interest debt. We help you pick the right one.
Replace your current loan with a new one at a lower rate, different term, or both. The classic move when rates drop or your credit has improved.
When it makes sense: You can recover the closing costs within ~5 years of payment savings and you plan to stay 5+ years.
Pull tax-free cash from your equity in a single transaction. The lever for renovations, paying off high-interest debt, or funding a downpayment on another property.
When it makes sense: The blended new rate is lower than your weighted average of current debts, and you have a clear plan for the cash.
VA, FHA, and USDA each have a streamlined refinance: minimal docs, often no appraisal, faster close. Built for borrowers already in a government loan.
When it makes sense: You're already in a VA or FHA loan and rates dropped enough that the math works after the new VA funding fee or FHA UFMIP.
Refinance a rental or short-term-rental property based on its cash flow, not your personal DTI. Pull equity to fund the next acquisition.
When it makes sense: You're scaling a portfolio and your personal DTI is the bottleneck, let the property qualify itself.
Most lenders quote rate. We quote lifetime cost. Here's the actual calculation we'll do on your call, same way we'd run it for our own loan.
Run my real number →Signals to Watch
If any two of these apply, it's worth a no-cost conversation. We'll tell you straight whether the math actually works.
The old "1% rule" is dated. With today's loan sizes, even 0.5–0.75% can be a meaningful win, if break-even is right.
If you bought with a 660 and you're now sitting at 740+, you're paying more in rate than you should.
Once you cross 20% equity, refinancing to conventional kills the monthly mortgage insurance permanently.
Fixed-rate refinances make sense before the reset hits, especially if your timeline got longer than originally planned.
Cash-out at 6.5% can wipe out 22% credit card balances. The math gets aggressive fast.
Pulling equity from a primary or rental to fund a new acquisition is one of the most common moves we run for investors.
Refi FAQ
Typically 2–3% of the loan amount, with appraisal, title, lender, and recording fees. Some lenders advertise a "no-cost refi", that means the fees are baked into a higher rate. We'll show you both versions side-by-side so you can pick.
Sometimes, usually when you don't plan to stay in the loan long. The lender credits closing costs in exchange for a slightly higher rate (often 0.25–0.5%). If you'll be out of the loan in 3–4 years, this can win. Past that, the rate-paid version usually beats it.
No, your old escrow refunds within ~30 days after closing, and your new lender sets up a new one. Plan to fund 2–3 months of taxes and insurance at closing, then get the old escrow check back shortly after.
It can, but it doesn't have to. If you're 7 years into a 30, we can refinance into a new 23-year or 20-year term to keep your payoff date roughly the same. Most lenders won't even offer this unless you ask.
Typical: 25–35 days. Streamlines (VA IRRRL, FHA Streamline) can close in 14–21. Cash-outs and DSCR refis take longer because of appraisal and seasoning requirements.
10-minute application, no credit pull, no pressure. We'll calculate your actual break-even and tell you straight whether refinancing is worth it.
Get My Refi Quote →Austen Smith · NMLS #265697 · Barton Creek Lending Group NMLS #264320 · Equal Housing Lender